Thursday, 9 May 2013

29/4/13 - 2/5/13 North Wales Rock!

On Monday morning, Dave and I started the long drive South to North Wales to get on some classic multi pitch routes at some legendary venues.  Our first stop seen us scaling Western Slabs VS4c on Dinas Mot, this 3 pitch route was very enjoyable, even so after a very long drive and the last crack pitch on this route was as interesting as any!  After a slippy, greasy abseil down the Western Gully we pitched the tent in  Llanberis Pass and while enjoying our evening meal, gazed up in wonder at the sights of Dinas Mot and Dinas Cromlech.  The next day we decided to go to Gogarth and in particular South Stack (Castell Helen).  This was the first time either of us had done any big sea cliff climbing and it was a truly esoteric and most enjoyable day with some cracking pitches of climbing, bagging Lighthouse Arete Direct VS4c, Poseidon/Blanco HVS 5a, and Pel VS4c, each of which was an absolute classic.  The next day we decided on a trip to Tremadog, bagging Merlin Direct HVS 5a and One Step in the Clouds VS4c before a quick hit to Eric's Cafe for a chip butty to refuel before heading back out on Christmas Curry with the Tree Madock finish which at VS4c was a total sand bag.  We spent our final day on Idwal Slabs and made a very enjoyable ascent of Heather Wall VS4c and finished up Original Route VS 5a.  Our descent route The Easy Way Off, has got to be one of the most hellishly serious and polished descent routes I can immediately remember.  All in all a very productive trip bagging 9 multipitch routes in 3 and a bit days!

Dinas Mot

Myself leading off on P2 of Western Slabs

Dave ab's off at Gogarth

Dave seconding P1 of light house arete direct 

Dave high on P1 of Poseidon/Blanco 

P2 of Merlin Direct

Eric's Cafe!

Dave heads off on P2 of Heather Wall

Idwal Slabs

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