Wednesday, 16 January 2013

15.01.13 - SW Ridge of the Douglas Boulder

Today Dave and I headed up for a crack at the SW Ridge of the Douglas Boulder. With a grade of III - IV,5 depending on what guide book you read, I personally would group it as the latter. The first pitch of the climb was definitely tech 5 and a bit desperate at times, however this pitch can be avoided by going a little way up the gully and climbing a turf ramp that leads to a good belay.  Conditions on the route were shit, loads of loose snow and no neve, nothing positive and sustained hard grade IV climbing throughout with good gear where you need it.  I think with a bit on neve and maybe even some ice the value of this route would improve, crackin lead on the first pitch by Dave!

Ben Nevis at sunrise, nowhere else I'd rather be

Carn Dearn and No5 Gully

SW Ridge of the Douglas Boulder IV,5

Looking over to Ledge Route II

Dave and the SW Ridge

Tower Ridge IV,3

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