06.07.14 - Aonach Mor and Aonach Beag

Today Christine, Alec and I started out on a week of Munro bagging for Up and Doon guided walks.  We took the Gondola and from the top station made our ascent of Aonach Mor and Aonach Beag after a short detour to the view point.  Todays weather was a mix of rain, cold winds, warm sunshine and everything in between.  When the clouds did clear, they revealed beautiful views of the Ben and of Loch Lochy and Loch Eil.  A great first day had by all!

Christine and Alec enjoying mixed Scottish weather!

The guys on the summit of Aonach Mor, 1221m

beautiful views of Ben Nevis and the Carn Mor Dearg arete

Lunch on the summit of Aonach Beag 1234m

05.07.14 - North Buttress with Simon and Paul

Today Paul, Simon and I headed to the Buachaille to go over some ropework and the principles of multipitch climbing.  We covered leader placed protection and its removal, anchor/stance selection, belays and direct belay options as well as how to use and safely release a guide plate under load.  It was also a great opportunity to get the guys climbing in their B2 boots ahead of their trip to Chamonix.  Another great day on the Buachaille!

Simon looking super cool (as usual) 

Paul and Simon exiting the first crack system

The guys exiting the crux crack

Big smiles after a great day out!

30.6.14 - Glencoe rocks!

Yesterday Jamie and I decided to get out and take advantage of the dry conditions in Glencoe.  We headed up the Coire nan Lochan path and veered off to Nirvana Wall for our first hit of the day.  Nirvana Wall is a 2 pitch HS 4b, 3 star classic that takes the crack line up the centre of Far Eastern Buttress on the East face of Aonach Dubh.  The climbing can only be described as beautiful and great fun.  Afterwards we continued up to Central Buttress on Stob Coire nan Lochan to tackle Central Grooves VS4c.  After a dicey approach up the hard, compact snow to the base of the route (much use of pointy stone to cut steps), we geared up and enjoyed one of the best rock climbs I have ever had.  We decided to climb it in 4 pitches, this enabled us to have 2 VS 4c pitches each.  The route itself is magnificent.  Why it doesn't get 3 star rating is beyond me.  The climbing is very bridgey and thinky.  The gear is always there if you look for it, even if the footholds arent!  a fantastic route following the obvious groove/corner that I'll be sure to climb again.  What a great day out!

me heading off up P2 of Central Grooves.  Photo: Jamie Bankhead

Getting higher up P2.  Photo:Jamie Bankhead

JB's new wheels! 

Jamie heading off up P1 on Nirvana Wall

Me heading up P2 of Nirvana Wall.  Photo: Jamie Bankhead 

Jamie engaged on P1 of Central Grooves

Climbers on Unicorn 

27/28.6.14 - Three peaks 1 and a half

Friday/Saturday seen me out for Mountain and Glen, guiding on 3 peaks challenges.  The weather on Friday was marginally better than the next days drizzle, but by no means bad weather on the Ben.  In short, Fridays group made it, Saturdays group didnt. Big well done to both groups for their efforts ...off climbing now!

Brians face of fatigue 

Fridays group on the summit! 

26.6.14 - North buttress, Buachaille Etive Mor

Late this morning Ali and I set out for the Buachaille and in particular, North Buttress.  This route is my standard 'bad mood route', what I mean by this is, if I'm in a bad mood, I head for North Buttress because there is no bad mood in the world that cant be lost in the sheer enjoyment of this beautiful route.  The point of today was to get Ali leading, placing gear and building belays, all of which she did in fine style.  We enjoyed awesome views amongst the best scrambling/climbing at its grade (Moderate).  Another great day out on the Buachaille, If you haven't done it, get on it! 

Ali leads off on the first crack system 

Ali's gear placement review - bomber!

Ali got fed up leading  

scrambling up the final rocky section to the summit

I love this environment dearly 

23.06.14 - Ben Nevis via the mountain footpath.

Today I was working for Adventure Nevis guiding Kunal on the mountain footpath.  The day was fairly warm and humid and set the stage for a sweat-fest on the lower half of the mountain, both in going up and coming down.  We cut off the path at corner 6 and went for a look at the North face from No4 Gully area, before making our way round to No3 Gully and then on to the summit for around 1230hrs.  Good day in a beautiful country ...even if you couldn't see it!

16.6.14 - Lagangarbh Buttress, Buachaille Etive Mor

Yesterday Ali and I headed out to the Buachaille with the plan being to get up either North Buttress or Curved Ridge for Ali to get a chance to try out her new B3 alpine boots before we head to Chamonix next month.  When we arrived, we counted over 20 cars and 2 mini buses, which lead to us making the assumption that Curved Ridge was probably as busy as the Hillary Step!  We also assumed there would be a fair few people on North Buttress so we decided on Lagangarbh Buttress, a nice grade 3 scramble up the buttress just East of Coire na Tulaich.  The approach was shit. A swampy, wet, heather trampling, midgie infested march of misery.  Once on the route itself, it was very enjoyable and the rock is immaculate, providing loads of high class, very enjoyable scrambling with the odd airy moment.  As we got higher on the route I had spotted Lagangarbh Chimney, a V.Diff rock climb about 3/4 of the way up the route.  We were deterred from bagging this as it looked very dank,damp and midgie infested.  Once at the top of the buttress we stopped for tea (yes I know, I know.  However tea seems to be a good bribe to the girlfriend out the door!).  Whilst enjoying our brew, we looked over to the coire rim and seen endless hoards of people going off in all directions, enjoying our solitude on a very busy mountain.  Once the tea was finished, we headed directly up by skirting over to the rim of the Great Gully and then over the summit shoulder to the path.  We did this because on my previous times on this route, it looks quicker and easier to contour round the coire rim and pop out at the col, trust me its not, its loose and shit and horrible and will most likely ruin your whole day.  A quick descent down the Coire and we were back at the car enjoying a bounty and a can of lilt, the little things!  great day out!

Lagangarbh Buttress, Grade 3 scramble

Ali glad to be on the rock and off the swamps!

Nice climbing with just a little exposure

Mountain guide or brew bitch?  not quite sure either..

Tea as promised

Brew with a view

Glencoe