30.6.14 - Glencoe rocks!

Yesterday Jamie and I decided to get out and take advantage of the dry conditions in Glencoe.  We headed up the Coire nan Lochan path and veered off to Nirvana Wall for our first hit of the day.  Nirvana Wall is a 2 pitch HS 4b, 3 star classic that takes the crack line up the centre of Far Eastern Buttress on the East face of Aonach Dubh.  The climbing can only be described as beautiful and great fun.  Afterwards we continued up to Central Buttress on Stob Coire nan Lochan to tackle Central Grooves VS4c.  After a dicey approach up the hard, compact snow to the base of the route (much use of pointy stone to cut steps), we geared up and enjoyed one of the best rock climbs I have ever had.  We decided to climb it in 4 pitches, this enabled us to have 2 VS 4c pitches each.  The route itself is magnificent.  Why it doesn't get 3 star rating is beyond me.  The climbing is very bridgey and thinky.  The gear is always there if you look for it, even if the footholds arent!  a fantastic route following the obvious groove/corner that I'll be sure to climb again.  What a great day out!

me heading off up P2 of Central Grooves.  Photo: Jamie Bankhead

Getting higher up P2.  Photo:Jamie Bankhead

JB's new wheels! 

Jamie heading off up P1 on Nirvana Wall

Me heading up P2 of Nirvana Wall.  Photo: Jamie Bankhead 

Jamie engaged on P1 of Central Grooves

Climbers on Unicorn