Wednesday, 27 February 2013

27.02.13 - Point Five Gully V,5 Ben Nevis

Point Five Gully, V,5 Ben Nevis is the most famous ice route in the world.  This fine route attracts climbers from across the Atlantic and from every corner of the world to test their mettle.  Today, I along with my good friend and flat mate Conor, bagged this iconic route and finally ticked it off our very long 'to do lists'.  The approach to the climb, which we started at 0530, was fine until the CIC hut and a total bitch there after. The route's main difficulties are found in the first 3 pitches.  I lead off on the first pitch, which increased in steepness with height until a good peg belay was reached after about 30m.  Conor then took on the steep and sustained second chimney pitch, which although very steep, did allow for some good bridging! The 3rd pitch is notoriously steep and is named the Rogue Pitch.  The Rogue Pitch is considered the technical crux of the route and increases in steepness very quickly with height to a vertical and at the steepest point feels almost overhanging.  Once the Rogue pitch is climbed, there are a few wee ice steps and chimneys over the remaining 210m to the summit of Ben Nevis.  I will remember this day for years to come.  Big thanks to Conor for a cracking days climbing and apologies to my friend Peter for cancelling our planned day in order to climb my dream route.

Point Five Gully V,5

I head off on the first pitch

Conor Starts the second pitch

Conor getting higher on P2

Conor and I at the belay below the Rogue Pitch

Getting steeper as I tackle the Rogue Pitch

Steepest part of the Rogue Pitch (Vertical and feels overhanging!)

Conor just before he topped out of Point Five Gully

Me topping out of Point Five Gully

Myself and Conor on the summit, what a day! 

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