Friday, 2 May 2014

02.05.14 - Ardverikie Wall

Today Dan and I went for the super classic Adverikie Wall HS 4b at Binnein Shuas near Creag Meagaidh.  With a four star rating, this route had a lot to live up to and did not disappoint!  very positive holds (of every variety!) if, at some points a little run out, but what it lacked in gear potential it more than over compensated in engaging and enjoyable climbing.  A friend once described that the route 'smiled at you', which it certainly does and you cant help but smile back!.  6 pitches of fine climbing were thoroughly enjoyed.  This was my first time climbing on Binnein Shuas, it will most certainly not be the last!

Ardevrikie Wall, directly above Dan

Dan at the 2nd Belay

The classic 3rd pitch up the crack/flake

P3

Dan Heads up P4

scenic enjoyable climbing!

Saturday, 26 April 2014

26.4.14 - First 3 peaks of the year!

Today I was out for Mountain and Glen on their first 3 Peaks Challenge of the year.  Initially I was quite pessimistic of our chances of summiting, given the weather forecast and conditions, however the forecast was inaccurate and a beautiful day, with pleasant conditions followed, allowing us to summit at around 1330hrs.  The mountain was very busy today with what can only be described as chancers, everywhere.  We descended close to the Red Burn area and watched in horror as multiple people bum slid out of control down the gully.  I later found out that LMRT with the help of RN Rescue flight 177 picked a few of these people off the mountain after having sustained serious injuries from losing control bum sliding down the mountain.  A big well done to Dan, Mark, Tony, Kevin, Anthony, Sean and Helen on their successful ascent, well done!


The guys and me in the Visitor Centre Car Park

Jubilations at the Redburn

Enduring the Zig Zags

Looking towards the Summit Plateau from the top of the Zig Zags today


My guys on the summit, trig point and platform emerging more every day!

Tuesday, 22 April 2014

22.4.14 - Another blowy day on the Ben

Today I was back on Ben Nevis for Atlas Mountaineering, guiding Kate on the mountain path. Getting to the summit today was very much a game of 2 halves, the first half was very pleasant and blessed us with nice views over the Mammores and surrounding area.  The Second half was very windy with us having to adopt brace positions a few times as strong gust scoured us with hail and snow.  We got to the summit and enjoyed our lunch before meeting an Aussie gentleman named Justin who was soaked from head to toe and asked if he could please follow us down, to which I had no objections.  We descended in the direction of the Redburn and cut back on the path at corner 2.  Another challenging but rewarding day on Scotland's highest mountain.

Kate and the Mammores

The half way point

tough going on the zig zags

getting higher!

Kate on the summit

Descending the Redburn

Massive crevasses in the Redburn slightly lower than corner 2

Monday, 21 April 2014

21.4.14 - East Face of Aonach Dubh

This morning for a quick hit, Jamie and I trekked up to the Weeping Wall on the East face of Aonach Dubh.  We chose to climb Curving Crack (Severe) and Terrace Arete HS 4b.  Curving Crack is very pleasant and positive route, if lacking in the gear department and Terrace Arete is a great one move wonder single pitch route.  As sunny as it was today, it was still a bit on the cool side with winds gusting quite high at times.  Back on the Ben again tomorrow!

more photos to follow

Walking up Coire nan lochan.  East Face of Aonach Dubh is the sun lit wall in the upper right of this photo

me on the 2nd pitch of Curving Crack, Photo: Jamie Bankhead

The water level had risen considerably, only a few hours earlier we skipped across here with dry feet!  Photo: Jamie Bankhead

Jamie non too impressed with a discarded bad of dog shit we found whilst walking out.  IF YOUR DOG SHIT IT OUT, YOU WALK IT OUT.

Sunday, 20 April 2014

20.04.14 - Cragging at Benny Beg

This morning Ali and I headed off for some single pitch sport climbing and were well on our way through Glencoe before I realised I had left my rock shoes at home, so after a bit of Sunday morning grump we headed off again, with ALL of our kit this time!  Benny Beg, located near Crieff is a fantastic single pitch sports crag, ideal for building climbing confidence as it has loads of lower graded routes with most of them measuring between 8m and 12m high.  Ali managed to lead United Colours of Bennyton 3 and Bill and Benny the flowerpot men, before working on Ally's in Wonderland 3+ which she had backed off at the crux the last time.  This time she managed to lead it, and thanks to a generous passer by, got some great photos doing so!  After this I had a play around and lead some 4/5's before enjoying leading The Beggar, The Smiddy and Benny Lane, all great 6a's.  A great day chilling and climbing!

Benny Beg

Ali pulls through the final moves on Ally's in Wonderland!

Leading The Beggar

Friday, 18 April 2014

19.4.14 the Pink Rib of Beinn a' Chrulaiste

This morning Ali and I headed off down the sun blessed Glencoe to the Jacksonville car park to tackle the Pink Rib of Beinn a' Chrulaiste, a 2 star, grade 1 scramble offering stunning views of Rannoch Moor and Buachaille Etive Mor. The approach, even as mentioned in the guide book (Noel Williams, Scrambles in Lochaber) was quite vague and open to variation, covering some boggy ground and crossing the West Highland Way footpath.  The route its self is very pleasant, with positive holds and interest in abundance.  Towards the top the route lessens in steepness (not that its ever really steep anywhere) and kinda peters out.  A short, but rightly popular mini classic that even met Ali's strict standards for an enjoyable quick hit!

the Pink Rib, Beinn a' Chrulaiste

Ali enjoying the scrambling

Me appreciating the views

Ali takes a seat

some great scrambling on the Pink Rib

Fantastic views all round today!



18.4.14 Blowy day on the Ben

Today I was working for Atlas Mountaineering guiding Nat, Nicola, Brenden and Conor on the Ben Nevis mountain path.  The weather was very challenging today with high winds and strong gusts, although the rain stayed away for the most part.  The current conditions on the path is that with the exception of a thawing redburn path junction, snow free up until halfway up zig zag 4.  Above here, the snow was very hard and icy and crampons were definitely required.  We made good time to the summit and enjoyed some lunch inside the summit shelter before enduring some horrendous wind gusts and very poor visibility on descent.  A challenging day, but over all enjoyable with everyone happy to reach the top, well done guys!

my group at the top of the zig zags

Nat, Nicola, Conor and Brendan happy at the summit!