10.01.2013 - Good Friday Climb III, Ben Nevis

After a very depressing look at the Ben from the CIC hut the previous day, the Met Office had assured us of a better day today.  Another early start saw Dave, Joe and myself head up to the hut again for a second look with a few routes in mind.  The feel of the day itself was totally different to the previous morning, very clear and still conditions inspired a good positive vibe that was felt by all, resulting in new found enthusiasm and optimism.  We headed up Observatory Gully and although looking patchy in places lower down, what was there was bomber solid neve which continued from the first steps on the lower sections of the gully throughout the entire climb. We had decided a look at Good Friday Climb would be an idea and so further up we headed past Tower Scoop which looked bare.  We roped up and built a belay for the easy but very serious traverse across Indicator Wall to reach the bottom of the first pitch.  The first pitch was very enjoyable, bomber neve throughout with a deep fracture about a third of the way up, good rock runners on the right and some very loose large blocks on the right, be warned. The crux itself was a little thin but good plastic 'toffee' ice ensured good first time placements and took shortish screws with confidence, very enjoyable conditions. After the crux pitch we did consider the alternate finish but opted just to get to the top as soon as due to the views we were appreciating.  We soon topped out to spectacular broken spectres and a cloud inversion.  Best winter day out so far!

looking up Observatory Gully from the bottom

Half way up!

Tower Scoop looking pretty bare

Nice view over to Tower Gap on Tower Ridge

Dave Anderson making short work of the crux pitch

Crux pitch on Good Friday Climb III, looking a bit thin but in good nick

I head up the final exit pitch to a great top out view

Joe, Dave and Myself on the top, Crackin day!

Ben Nevis Conditions - 09.01.2013

Today we went for a walk up the CIC hut, just to get a look at what state the Ben was in after this epic thaw and its not good. While there has been a very very light dusting as you can see below on NE Buttress, its far too little. Even today with the MWIS forecast predicting no rain, it was raining and wind speeds were higher than forecast. The freezing level which was predicted at 900m, was more like 1200m We were considering an ascent of one of the large easy gullies such as 5 or 3, but with the snow being like a bad slush puppy drink, and depressing weather, we decided to bail. 

Carn Dearg and Number 5 Gully

NE Buttress and the Douglas Boulder

looking back down the path from the hut

NEB and the CMD

= tears

Castle Ridge and Carn Dearg

27.12.12 - Dorsal Arete and Bomerang Gully -SCNL

Keen to get something done, today Joe and I headed up the hurt lochan to have a good look at the conditions with a view to bag a few routes whilst there! once at the plateau it became clear that we weren't the only people to have thought the lochan might be a good bet, with teams on a variety of climbs and rucksacks stashed under every reasonably sized boulder!  After gearing up we decided to keep the rope in the rucksacks and headed up Dorsal Arete (II,3) which was a very enjoyable solo, we then headed down Broad Gully (I) and continued straight up Boomerang Gully (II) which again was an enjoyable solo, finding some good neve. After topping out on the summit of Stob Coire Nan Lochan, we headed back down Broad Gully which since it had been snowing for the past 2 hours, had collected a significant amount of snow since our last descent.  We did go over for a look into NC Gully (II), but were deterred from continuing up by the amount of spindrift piling down it and disappearing daylight. We headed back down the hurt lochan reminiscing about all things 1980's like a pair of proper old gits!  Brilliant day out!  

Joe enjoying Dorsal Arete II,3 with some walkers in Broad Gully

Looking up at Dorsal Arete and Forked Gully

Approaching the Crux Fin 

The Crux Fin on Dorsal Arete II,3

Joe mid way up Boomerang Gully II

Heading up Boomerang Gully II

Taking photos in heavy spindrift = fail 

11.12.12 - Tower Gully I, Ben Nevis

Today Dave, Kev and I had wandered up to see what kinda nick the Ben was in with a view to climbing The Curtain IV,5. However after a closer look, it became apparent that although close, and looking decent on the upper sections, the first pitch wasn't quite good enough for climbing just yet.  Kev bailed to check the condition of a rock route he was keen to get done and Dave and I decided we would head up Observatory Gully, and up through Tower Gully to get a good look at how things were shaping up.  Conditions in the gully were varied and there was a fair bit of slab in all the usual areas.  On topping out from Tower Gully, we were blessed with amazing views, and particularly good views of the Cuillin of Skye. There were teams on other routes today such as North East Buttress, No3 Gully and an Edinburgh team who didn't quite know where they were or where they were going ...or much else at all. What a cracking day!

Coire na Ciste today

Carn Dearg and Trident today

NE Buttress today

Observatory Gully today

CMD and left hand section of Indicator Wall today

The view heading down towards No4

the all new, all singing, all dancing No4 Gully marker Cairn

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02.12.12 - Ledge Route, Ben Nevis

Parking at the North Face car park in Torlundy, the smugness of the 28th of November had subsided to an apathetic feeling of dread when we thought about the long walk up to the CIC hut.  We did however get on with it and a good mix of witty banter and mutual suffering made the journey tolerable!  We soon found ourselves gearing up under Carn Dearg to beautifully clear views.  The route itself was in very good condition underfoot, an advantage of its popularity I would guess.  A very enjoyable straightforward ascent amidst great views was savoured by all.  After a few photos, we headed for our descent route, No4 Gully.  When we reached the Gully top we were greeted by a foreign climber who had just ascended No4 Gully and very kindly offered us a sip from his hip flask, thinking it would be rude to refuse, we all indulged ...Talisker, Jackpot!   After a few more photos we descended No4 Gully, which was in good conditions if a little lean. Yet another magical day out, big thanks to Kev, Dave, Dessie, Craig and Anna!

Heading up the long long road to the CIC hut

Approaching the initial slab of Ledge Route (II)

Dessie, Craig and Anna high on the route

good conditions

Good Company 

Ben Nevis, CMD and the Aonachs 

01.12.12 - Sron na Lairig

On a frosty Saturday morning myself and quite a few friends made our way up the Lairig Eilde towards the classic grade II, Sron na Lairig.  A great deal of frost and frozen turf and surface water provided smiles and slides all round!  The ridge itself we found in decent condition and were spoilt with amazing views all day.  Once having topped out from Sron na Lairig, we topped Stob Coire Sgreamhach (1,072m) before U-turning and making our way back back down to the Lairig Eilde via an interesting route.  Another good day in the mountains with friends!

Craig and Anna on the narrow section

myself, Dessie, Kev, Anna, Dave and Craig

Sron na Lairig

canny beat it! 

the Lairig Eilde

a busy Sron na Lairig

the mob! 

28.11.12 - Tower Ridge, Ben Nevis

On an early, cold morning the starship USS Focus pulled up at the top car park at in the Allt a Mhuilinn. Feeling considerably smug having bypassed the god awful walk up from Torlundy we quickly made progress up the path to the CIC hut.  We had decided to climb up the Douglas Gap East Gully and from there, up the Douglas Gap to gain the ridge proper.  This initial climb was a good indication of things to come, iced and snowed up rock in which most situations a hand was as good as an axe! We had made slow progress throughout the day and eventually reached the eastern traverse.  A banked out, sugary traverse on disintegrating footholds far above tower gully made the sphincter twitch a few times before completing the ordeal and moving up through the tunnel to a solid thread belay on a chock stone.  After some good leading by Dave we gained the great tower just as light faded and now faced Tower Gap in the dark.  As you can imagine, given the overall condition of the route, this made for slow progress as all four of us one at a time crossed the gap.  Once the gap was out of the way, a collective sigh of relief was heard from the entire group, now making good progress up the easy exit slopes and the only neve snow we found on the entire 600m route was on the final 15m exit chimney!  a quick group photo and a snickers before we all headed down the zig zags and back to the car.  What a cracking day out with Dave, Kev and Craig, Cheers lads!

Morning Light behind the first platform on NE Buttress

Gearing up with Dave, Kev and Craig

Kev and Dave having just completed the Eastern Traverse 

Myself about mid way on the Eastern Traverse

Kev, enjoying a bomber spike belay!

Cracking photo by Craig of us approaching Tower Gap

Topped out! ,