Sunday, 4 November 2012

04.11.2012 - Polldubh Crags, Glen Nevis

I spent today teaching Colin and Diane gear placement, belay construction  rope work and abseiling at Polldubh Crags, Glen Nevis.  After a in depth look at several different types of active and passive rock protection, Colin and Diane got straight into practise trying to fit just about every piece of pro I own into the various nooks and crannies of Severe Crack and Clapham junction on Pinnacle Ridge! From there we headed to SW buttress where we went through abseil and top roping set up and management before ending the day with a climb up The Gutter (Diff) on Pine Wall Crag. Well done and thank you to Colin and Diane for a cracking day!

Hard at work placing wired Nuts! 

Friday, 26 October 2012

24.10.2012 - Sgurr Dearg and The Inaccessible Pinnacle

Our latter of our two days on Skye saw us up early and head up the south west ridge of Sgurr Dearg which in its self is a grade 1/2 scramble and very enjoyable route. We arrived at the top of Sgurr Dearg to the spectacular sight that is the Inaccessible Pinnacle standing dominantly over the summit. With no time to waste, we headed to the bottom of the In Pin to start the climb. The In Pin is traditionally climbed in 2 pitches but with Andy expressing that he did not want to lead any of them, I lead the two pitches, in one long single pitch using a 60m rope.  The climbing on the east ridge of the In Pin is graded a three star Moderate, this easy grade does nothing to reflect the exposure on this climb. I personally climb at HVS standard and I was very glad of placing gear on this super exposed narrow fin of rock towering above the steep walls of Coire Lagan. A great anchor on the west side of the In Pin produces a confident 20m abseil back to its base.  From Sgurr Dearg we headed off towards An Stac, skirting it on the Coire Lagan side on some scree before reaching the Bealach Coire Lagan and onwards to topping out on Sgurr Mihc Connich! Another cracking day on Skye!


the In Pin as seen from Sgurr Dearg Beag

Looking back down the In Pin, to get an idea of how narrow this is please consider that the rope you can see has a diameter of 8.6mm!

Bomber abseil anchor on the west side of the In Pin summit 
Me abseiling off the In Pin

Andy en route to Sgurr Mhic Connich 

there's always time for a pose! 


The Inaccessible Pinnacle and Sgurr Dearg as seen from the Great Stone Chute of Sgurr Alasdair 

Coire Lagan

23.10.12 - Pinnacle Ridge, Sgurr nan Gillean

On Tuesday Andy and I headed up to Skye to take in a few legendary routes on the Black Cuillins, the first of which was to be Pinnacle Ridge on Sgurr nan Gillean. Graded at Difficult, this was a truly spectacular route involving some classic Cuillin exposure on steep aspects with rewarding views all round. From the summit of Sgurr nan Gillean (which isnt much bigger in area than a pool table!) we descended along the ridge and soon found ourselves at the summit of Am Basteir and made our way on to the iconic Basteir tooth. After a short and moderately tricky, atmospheric abseil, we made good time up to our final Munro of the day, Bruach na Frithe and descended back to Sligachan from Sgurr a Bhasteir. A great all round mountaineering day out! 


Pinnacle Ridge, Sgurr nan Gillean

Andy on Abseil from the 3rd pinnacle, Pinnacle Ridge

Looking back to the 3rd Pinnacle from the Knights Peak

Andy about to abseil off the Basteir Tooth

Very atmospheric abseil off the Basteir Tooth

Am Basteir (left) and the Basteir Tooth (right)

Am Basteir 

Saturday, 20 October 2012

20.10.2012 - Ben Nevis via Mountain path

Today I was on Ben Nevis again guiding Victoria and Rajinder on the mountain path.  They both did very well and might even have enjoyed themselves and learned a thing or two! Well done guys!

Snow cover starting at the top of the zig zags and firm under foot by McLeans steep at the moment!

good amount of snow on the summit


Rajinder and Victoria sit proudly on the summit podium 

Saturday, 29 September 2012

29.09.2012 - Open 3 peaks challenge, Ben Nevis

Another 3 peaks challenge style ascent of the Ben today, congratulations to my team of 6 who all did very well, cheers guys! 

Thursday, 27 September 2012

27.09.2012 - Buachaille on my Birthday!

This morning, as is my birthday tradition to be on a mountain route, Ali and I made our way up North Buttress on Buachaille etive Mor. We were lucky enough to have the weather on our side until we had completed one of my favourite scrambles (and arguably the best on the Buachaille) and were well on the descent. A first ascent for Ali as she had previously never set foot on the Buachaille and a fine route to bag this iconic peak. Big well done to my gorgeous girlfriend who described the route as "scary and hard but I survived!"




22.09.2012 - Ben Nevis Charity Ascent

With good conditions, I lead my group on an ascent of Ben Nevis via the mountain path in aid of a charity fundraising event. Well done to all my group on their successful summit, with an age range of 18 - 67!  Well done guys!